A Day at Sea

April 6, 2015

Hoi-ti-toi-ti 

Does this word exist outside of the slang my mother taught me?  If it doesn't, it should. Last night we supped in 'Restaurant 2'. It is a tasting of extremely elegant, small plate entrees and was interesting, but not a single item served was overly impressive to me. It could be that I was suffering from this damned cold. At any rate, the entire presentation is on the extreme 'hoi-ti-toi-ti' side of the spectrum. Let's face it...I'm just a Kansas/Seattle/Kapoho kind of gal and am more impressed with lovely people than with fancy living. 

We are nearing, or in, the very narrow water way that separates Yemen and Somolia, getting closer to the Red Sea. At 5:30 AM, it is too dark to simply look out the window to see if we in the straights. Once John is awake, I can turn on the television to see what our position is. 

Not much to see, but this is the coast of Yemen, which we passed early in the day on April 6. 

My personal position is calling for a day of total rest. I've fallen victim to yet another cold, as mentioned above. Based upon the timing, I suspect it was a gift from a fellow passenger on one of out flights to Mumbai.  All of my western cures aside, I may wander down to the doc and see what he can offer. I played through it yesterday, but today will be a day of complete rest for me. 

April 7, 2015

Buggers. I wrote a lot yesterday and now, when I want to continue, the text is gone. Buggers. 

The events of yesterday will stay with me for a long time. 

Since I was going to spend the day lounging, I elected to take in some time in a comfy deck chair in the aft, near a small saltwater pool and jacuzzi. After an hour or so (in the shade), John (in the sun) and I saw and heard one of the crew security men shouting to another. John was curious and as I rolled over, I caught sight of a Zodiak type boat speeding our way. I mentioned it to John and then saw yet another boat speeding our way. High alert. 

I mentioned in an earlier post that we took on additional security, as well as weapons, in Salalah. I saw two of the incredibly buff, big security men (think Rangers or Seals) heading into a crew stairwell in a big hurry. The boats got closer and closer.  John feels that the potential pirates were getting in close to see the vessel type and determine what their possibilities may be. His theory continues that the security (2 from Germany, 1 from Belgium) trained one of their rockets on their vessels and pinged them. That was enough to send them away. Shortly after that, yet another boat came speeding our way, getting much closer. When they were about 100 meters off the port side, they again turned around. They followed for nearly 15 minutes, but then disappeared. Thanks to our mercenaries protecting us, it was a non-event. 

At noon, the captain's report from the bridge didn't mention it, but did mention that the security men would be leaving the vessel around 5:30 this morning. Evidently, once we get well into the Red Sea, the threat of piracy subsides. The only passengers who were aware of situation were those at the saltwater pool. 

Just another day in the Middle East. 

Now, a little about this cruise. 

Our vessel, owned by Seabourn, is named the Sojourn. Her overall length is 150 meters, making her very small in the world of cruise ships. Her total capacity for passengers is 450 with 425 crew.  We are sailing with 402 passengers, and almost 400 crew, so have a nearly one to one ratio of passengers to crew. And the crew are from all nationalities, as are our passengers. 

The nationality breakdown of our fellow passengers. 

There is no shortage of places to hang out. The main hang out is on Deck 7, where the baristas keep busy all day. There are plenty of reference books, novels, magazines, newspapers and games to keep us occupied. Naturally, there is a gym as well as a game room, a theater, a casino, six bars, four restaurants and five pool and spa areas. They have gone for the semi tropical with their plantings around the ship. It is I. The theater that we have our conversations about the religions, politics and cultures of our destinations. 

Reminds me of home. 

And there is some odd art around the ship.

We walk past this silver pooch numerous times daily. For Easter, he got a little red ribbon. 

I'll post more of the art and ship in later postings. 

We are covering much distance on the water. That means many sea days in the first week of our journey. Thursday we will be in Aqaba and have 9 hours of touring at Petra. After that we head to the other side of the Sinai peninsula and the Suez Canal. 

For now, it's off to the pool I go. I'm completely engrossed in my current book, 'All The Light We Cannot See' by Anthony Doer. 

On through the Straight of Bab el Mandeb

It is Easter Sunday, April 5, 2015. 

Just a short entry here, jotting down some thoughts...

We are in areas that were familiar to the people of Jesus' time and are speeding along at nearly 25 miles per hour. Currently we are heading for the straight of Bab el Mandeb, at the southern tip of the Red Sea. The straight is between Yemen and Somalia. 

As we were boarding yesterday, after our tours, John noticed packages waiting to board.  Even though they are in concealed cases, he says it is clear that they are rocket launchers and the rockets to go in them. If there is to be any trouble, it will happen in the next couple of days. My guess is that the bridge is a pretty serious place these days.  

The fighting between these areas has been going on for thousands of years. Doesn't it usually just boil down to religion?  Yes. I wish there were a way to bring more tolerance into this part of the world. Such beautiful people, but the radical extremists are not concerned with anything but spreading their true doctrine. 

Forgive my bad line drawing, but this is where we are currently and where we are headed. 

Easter service at 9:30 this morning. My prayer for my family and friends who read this is for peace. 

Shalom. 

Beautiful Oman

April 4, 2015

Let me start out by saying, I was more than a little apprehensive about our stop in Oman. I mean, they ARE right next door to Yemen. But my concerns were a wasted effort. We had a great time in Salalah. 

And John got completely into it.  Here is John , Mohamed and Gene. Besides his dashdi and muuffon, we picked up some frankincense. 

The Sojourn arrived right on time this morning and we were ready to head out, especially after 3 days at sea. Off of the ship at 8:15, we met Mohamed, our guide. He got us onto our bus with about 25 of our shipmates and off we went. Mohamed's English was impeccable as is his tremendous knowledge of his homeland. Mohamed told us of the current political situation in Oman. Because of an incredibly good leader, in Sultan Qaboos, the country is prospering. Free education and medical benefits for Omanis, very little unemployment and they are successfully staying clear of the arguments all around them. Some people want the Sultan would get to the fray, but most Omanis are extremely happy that he is not. 

The city of Salalah is the Capitol of the Dophor region and came to prominence many years ago because of their lively trade in frankincense. The frankincense trade dates back over 3000 years ago. We toured some UNESCO Heritage designated ruins of old trading ports and the settlement of a sultan 2000 years ago. 

But first, on our way from the heavily secured sea port into the city, we got to see a herd of camels heading off for a day at the beach. I didn't get any beach shots, but did get a few of some youngsters munching as they headed to the beach. 

The camels crossing the road made our driver stop, but we had some good photo ops with them. And evidently, camel meat is quite health and good. Who know, we gat to try it during our trip in Jordan. 

The city itself is made up of many shops, businesses, government building and huge personal homes. Homes are build very large to accommodate the extended family that is such a way of life there. At one point, we drove down a wide street, right next to the beautiful white sand beaches.  There has been some demolition of old buildings there and the plan is to move the road away from the water so it isn't flooded during monsoon seasons. Saturday is the second day of the Omani weekend, so there wasn't nearly the traffic there would have been on a workday. 

We visited Al-Balid, a famous mid evil port, made prosperous  by the frankincense trade. At the site of Samhuram, we walked about and learned of the trade centers importance over 3000 years ago. There are currently exploration digs going there and we saw basins, drainage and residential portions of these amazing ruins.  As we drove from site to site, we learned of the importance of frankincense to the area since ancient times. Mohamed told us of medical components and uses for frankincense and of its uses for purifying air as it kills bacteria, calms rattle nerves and imparts a general sense of wellbeing. 

The equivalent of a European coat of arms is in the entrances if the castle. 

After the tours of the ruins, we headed to the Al Husn palace to take some pictures and then to the Al Husn souk (market). 

Stall after stall of vendors selling their frankincense 

And piles of frankincense are displayed.  

Naturally, no tour is complete without a little shopping, right?  We bought some frankincense and myrrh as well as a new set of clothes for John. Every shop has frankincense and oils. Frankincense comes in three levels of purity. The most pure is used to ingest, making a water with Italy drinking the eater calm coughing, helps remove phlegm and open airways. The other two grades are used primarily as incense. 

On the personal side of things, I'm dealing with a cold that was graciously shared with me by someone on the plane. I'll be trying some of the frankincense in a drink, as well as behind my neck soon. 

For now...a few pictures from this very interesting trip that was filled with lovely, warm and happy Omanis. 

Just a couple of guys, on their phones. 

John is getting a lesson on dressing. 

A mosque tower. We were surprised to hot hear any calls to prayer. Mohamed told us that the timing is 5:30 am, 2:30 pm, 6 pm, 8:30 ans 11 pm. It works better with this schedule during the working days. 

This doorway was to the shoots that were used to fill the ships that wee in the bay below. 

Some dishes of the ancient sultan. 

And they ancient sustains waiting recommend. 

All in all, it was a terrific day.  Learning of cultures that I know nothing about has been a highlight on this trip. 

One last item. When we returned to our room, after dinner, our room stewardess had left a little gift for us.  

An Easter basket!  Happy Easter everyone. He has risen indeed. 

Life is such a ship...of delights. The fact

The The fact I can see I April 1, 2015

I miss texting. It's weird not being able to text John to tell him it's time for our frankincense lecture. How much we rely upon instant communication. 

April Fools Day...no foolin'. We had a few staff members pull some funny comments out of their hats, but for the most part, it was just another day...at sea...in the middle of the ocean. Perhaps not just another day. 

Our day began early, searching for coffee. The restaurants open for breakfast at 8 AM. For those of my readers who know me at all, I am an early riser, no matter where in the world I may be. Or how jet lagged I may be. But this ship is not equipped for early risers. After wandering for a while, I discovered a lovely coffee  bar and my morning barista friend, Reesi, who can crank out a wickedly good latte. Problem solved. 

This was a rather uneventful day, as will be most of the sea days. It takes over three days to sail from Mumbai to Salalah at around 13 knots per hour. The sun is shinning and the numerous pool decks offer shade, as well as wonderful ocean breezes. 

We took in a conversation (not to be confused with a lecture) about the frankincense tree, trading history, harvesting process and the culture surrounding the ancient resin.  Remember, this is one of the precious gifts given to Jesus. The frankincense trade is over 4000 years old and was one of the primary reasons for the migration of the people of the areas of Oman, Yemen and Somalia. The most favored kind of frankincense is the sacra.  It is grown only in Oman and has a better fragrance and is clearer than the many other varieties. John and I will be visiting some areas of Oman where the frankincense is harvested and produced, when we are there in two days. 

During sea says,the ship plans numerous activities to keep their guests occupied. John and I will not be playing bridge, or taking tango lessons, but we have gotten involved in a daily game of team trivia. Our group is named GOLDSKIN (Growing Old Living Dangerously Spending Our Children's Inheritance Now) and includes folks from Australia, Vancouver Canada and the US. Our first day we did OK, our second day we crashed and burned. But we are having a great time getting to know the folks on our team. 

Of course,we meet in a bar.  I think there are 8 teams of trivia players. 

This day blessed me with an opportunity for a much needed nap. Just before our evening activities, I zonked out for about an hour. I know when I've actually slept because of the drool on the pillow when I wake up. Sorry-TMI. 

Formal night. Some people hate it. Some people love it. I tend to sit in the middle. It's fun to see all of the finery and our fellow passengers strutting their stuff. The best of the evening was the authentic formal kilt and all of the accoutrements. I've not learned where this man is from, but he's definitely the real deal.

My John, in a tuxedo. Such a handsome husband. 

--------

April 2, 2015

Sitting on deck 5 aft whirlpool/spa we had a hail of large chunks of stuff fall on us. John thinks it some kind of cinder from the exhaust pipes. Perhaps the engineers are cleaning the boilers and were unaware that the by product would come raining down on the swimming deck. He gave a chunk to an officer. Maybe we will find out what is was. Maybe we won't. 

Today was conversation about the religion of Islam. The speaker is very good, extremely knowledgeable and insightful. We discussed the 5 pillars of Islam, the aspect of surrender to Allah, Jesus being a prophet and the differences between the various sects within Islam. The speaker is a wonderful proponent of learning from everyone, appreciating all people and respecting everyone. 

Tomorrow is Good Friday. I've yet to find a chapel on board, but I know I will be able to fins a quiet room somewhere. We can make our own chapel. 

----------------

April 2, 2015

During a 'block party, in our hallway, we finally met the padre for the cruise and he is right across the hall from us. Father Karl is having Good Friday service tomorrow (yeah) and will be having service for the rest of our voyage. As we were meeting him during our block party, John took liberties with my leg  and showed him my Buen Camino tattoo. The father said he that pilgrimage is defiantly on his bucket list. 

I believe my first entry, after boarding, mentioned that the crew does pirate drills. Sailing between Yemen and Somalia is pretty sketchy. Some could say dangerous. Others would perhaps say freakin' stupid. The shipping lanes are open and there have been no signs of pirating activity  of late. 

Nevertheless, when we returned to our suite this evening, after a delicious Indian meal, we had a notification from the ship captain. The notice tells us of added security personnel being on board, siren blast information and instructions if we hear that particular siren blast. 

Just another cruise notice. We already knew there would even more we'd for  next few days. 

This siren blast, of four short bursts, indicates there is a threat of pirate activity and to get out of sight. Off the decks, away from doors and windows. 

Neither John or I are much worried. The ship runs in the commercial lanes. By cruising standards, it's a quite small ship. I'm not even entirely sure if I'll post this entry. If I do, there will be a picture of the notice from the captain. I'm not keen on having our family or friends worry about our safety or wellbeing. 

I'm nearly ready for snooze time. I apologize for the jumble of this entry. Ups, downs, new places and people. Tomorrow I shall focus on some of the wonderful folks we are meeting. 

Perhaps this isn't so much a 'blog', as it is just electronic journaling. Whatever you may call it, this helps me remember events and people. There won't be a Facebook link posted for this entry for a few days. No need to worry folks. So, if you happen to stumble upon get this, drop a note. 

Mumbai and boarding the Luxurious Sojourn

March 31, 2016

Our ship, the MV Soujourn, pulled out of Mumbai around 8 PM. As we supped with one of the ships entertainers, we were barely aware of the departure. Our host for the evening, Chris, said that lately the ships are leaving their ports during a time when the fewest number of passengers will be on the outside decks. Yes, he even admitted that the crew does, not only emergency and fire drills, they do pirate drills. Now that we are cruising through the open waters of the Indian Ocean, I suppose that is something that must weigh on the mind of our captain. 

Shall I backtrack a bit?  Absolutely. If I'm not allowed to backtrack, I'll miss many parts of our journey. 

When we left our hotel in Mumbai, we were in a 'Cool Cab', that charges a fixed rate for our drive. We paid 700 INR (India Rupee), about $12 USD, for a drive that was adventurous, dangerous and completely educational. Our driver hoisted two pieces of luggage onto the top of his small car and strapped them down. The other two were stowed in the passenger side of the front seat. The drive to the Ballard dock was far from uneventful. We drove past Victoria Station, as well as many temples, mosques and churches. There were more slums, houses with scaffolded of sticks, and people everywhere. Our driver professed that he LOVES MUMBAI and wouldn't live anywhere else. 

First rate scaffolding. This was the standard for many of the buildings. They are preparing for painting, repair or who knows what. Whatever it is for, the place certainly looks like it needs some repair. But the people are generally happy. So who am I to criticize?

Auto rickshaw, anyone?

What we drove past more than anything though, were hundreds of thousands of  marchers. It was obvious they were protesting something, but without a single banner in English, we were clueless. And our cab driver was completely unconcerned. He was busy dodging motor bikes, other cabs, pedestrians and CRAZY drivers. These protesters were nearly all men, walking in an orderly way, complete with police insuring their safety on the sidewalks. For over five miles they were marching. We had some guesses, but it became apparent once we got to the port, who the walkers were.  The typically busy port of Mumbai, was nearly deserted. No workers, no cranes moving, no trucks hauling, no ships in the port. This was a general labor strike. The aforementioned Victoria Station was also deserted. It was somewhat erie, being in a silent port. There were dozens of container and tanker ships, anchored outside of the port, awaiting clearance from the deserted port commanders office. 

We arrived at the Ballard Pier, Indira Dock Green Door (really, it sounds like some horror flick) intact after the 1-1/2 hour drive. The area was mass confusion. In 95 degree heat, with the humidity at an equally high level.  The well heeled travelers trying to get through the maze to their ship was somewhat amusing to watch. The guards all wore assault rifles and it appeared that they were not afraid to use them. We had to show our passports to damn near every one of them. After dodging cabs, buses and auto rickshaws, we eventually made our way to the lone Seabourn staff member who was getting us all headed in the right direction. That direction was to a very small building that had luggage scanning machines, more guards and enough room to move about as a port-a-pottie. It kind of smelled like one too. But everyone, the travelers, the guards and the staff, were all exceptionally kind and as helpful as they could be. My luggage contained a couple of items that I feared may be misunderstood-namely my spinning balls. They are made of two tennis balls, filled with rice and have rope attached.  They are your basic spinning practice balls and in the X-ray machine, they look like some kind of bomb. But we made it through, tossed our luggage into a truck and found our bus to get us to the ship. After a few more guards and passport inspections, we made it onboard. 

Once onboard this opulent vessel, we were herded into the Grand Salon, for our registration. Usually registration takes place before boarding, but there were no facilities for that at the port. Passports turned in, ID photos taken and credit cards scanned, we were released to wander and find our lunch. We found Gene in the Grand Salon and we all found Marilyn in one of the many restaurants. During lunch, the ship announcement came through that our suites were all prepared, so we proceeded the the 4th deck and found our suite. 

Our suite. Wow. Roomy. There is a shower AND a separate bathtub. A walk-in closet. A couch, dining table and bar. A huge window. A bottle of chilled champagne. And there is Berta, our room stewardess. Berta is from Madrid and (!!!) was walked part of El Camino. It was like old home week. I put our announcement on the entryway of our suite and proceeded to imbibe in some bubbly. In short order, our luggage showed up, we got unpacked and wandered the ship, getting our bearings. 

Our room announcement. Yes, we are all here because we're not all there. Oh Pahoa. 

We reviewed the activities for the remainder of the day and then participated in the mandatory drill. This was by far the most civilized drill we have ever had on a ship. No life preservers, no standing in an orderly line and no staff members keeping us quiet. We sat at tables at our assigned evacuation stations, listened to the captain and watched a demonstration for the proper way to put on a life vest. We were then set free to play until dinner. 

During our dinner, we met a few of our fellow passengers...a math professor, his wife a science and biology professor, Chris, a performer on the cruise, among others, and we met Sara Lee. Not the pie lady, but a southern belle from Dallas who professed that she never wore a pair of jeans until she met her husband. She continues to be the belle, but also shoots pigs and deer on the family's gentleman farm and is, quite obviously, part of the oil wealth of the Dallas area. The attitudes of intolerance we heard from some of our shipmates made both John and me cringe.  I could rave a while on is, but then that would be showing intolerance on my behalf. Just suffice to learn, I shall be listening more than I will be talking on this cruise. That old bumper sticker would come in handy...'coexist'. 

After our terrific dinner (more on the food later), we retired to our suite and prepared for bed. The past few days have been grueling and our well fed and wined bodies were letting us know that it was time for bed. 

Hilo to Mumbai is a long travel day

March 29, 2015

Hilo to Mumbai

It is difficult for me to understand why I'm so devastatingly not jazzed about the adventure we have embarked upon. Perhaps because it was rather a last minute thing and we just didn't have the time to get excited. Or because some of the countries we are hitting haven't been on my bucket list. Then again, it could be that the Egyptian portion has been cancelled. 

Bad start. Scratch that. Do overs. 

Get in the mood!!!  

We are off on the next adventure. I'm not quite sure what we have gotten ourselves into, heading to the Middle East right now. We are confident that Seabourn has professionals on task, insuring that we don't head into anywhere that may be dangerous. 

Leaving Hilo last night, on the dreaded United red eye to Los Angeles, we arrived sleepy and hungry into LAX.  John had the brilliant idea of using airport wheelchair assist, since he is spending some extra time in his cast. After a short wait at our arrival gate, Albert came with a wheelchair and a smile. And he knows how to navigate the airport. The wheelchair assist also gets both of us an early boarding, so we are sure to get our roll aboard luggage stowed and John can change from the walking cast to the resting cast. 

Gee, does United treat all of their flights like a cattle call?  Boarding in Hilo was a failed attempt at organization. I had to chuckle at the confusion due to the lack of clearly defined lines for boarding groups. But our arrival in LA was softened by Albert, who was truly helpful. 

Our flight from LA to Newark was filled with a bunch of boys in soccer uniforms-a very professional looking group. My conversations with them garnered some interesting information. They, and their parent chaperones, are heading for Barcelona. Yes, Barcelona, where soccer RULES. After getting gold regionally (LA area) this Y13-14 soccer team is heading for competition for the fourth straight year, in Barcelona. They are hoping for a win going into this game TP better their record of one win, one loss and one tie. They are a really great group of early teens, and all, except one red head, are of Hispanic decent.   And they are accompanied by some great parents. This is one of those times I wish I had more Spanish language skills.  We will be keeping our eyes open for news about their Barcelona match. 

----------

Our first stop when we get done flying will be Mumbai, but only for the night. After flying and waiting for some 35 hours, we will be ready for a horizontal sleeping arrangement. I must say, India has been only a thin veil of thought in my places to see. We considered leaving home earlier to travel in India, but 4 weeks at a time is enough to be gone. 

-------

We were whisked through luggage, customs and immigration at the Mumbai airport when our 15.5 hour flight ended. Such a lovely, modern airport. We took a cab to our hotel, complete with luggage strapped to the top of the car. Traffic is crazy and this is certainly not a city I would want to drive in. Their roads are set up British style and the driver is on the right hand side of the car. Lane dividers, traffic signals and speed limits are all just recommendations that no one seems to consider. Horn honking in mandatory. 

We drove past miles and miles of galvanized slums, where families live just beside the main road in shacks made of steel roofing type walls. Hundreds of 'homes' with thousands of people. India remains desperately poor. The stark contrast to the financial district, where our hotel is located, is almost nauseating. Heavy security outside the hotel, and inside is incredible opulence. 

Over the top, but a welcome sight...our luxury room for the night. 

------

Jet lag is alive at the Sofitel hotel in room 713 tonight. We hit the sack at midnight and are both awake at 5 AM. After a luggage reshuffle, we will head to the boat at noon to meet up with Gene and Marilyn Hendricks. 

So for now, I leave you with one of my favorite quotes...

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime.”

― Mark Twain, The Innocents Abroad/Roughing It

As Willie would say, 'On The Road Again'

While I've always thought of myself as just a twee bit worldly, I've discovered that this just isn't the case. Walking across Spain doesn't make one worldly, as much as it makes one accepting. Anyway, as we prepare to head off to the India, the Mid-East and Greece, there are is one thing I must note that we have learned...

Don't buy a cell phone in a country that you don't know the language. This is a huge problem with all of the help menus, phone labels, fields and messages that aren't in English. Even Spanish would have been much more helpful than having our phone on the Camino be from France. Live and learn. John found a plan, with T-Mobile, that can use one of our old phones for international data, text and voice.  I've tested it out and the hotspot works fine for the iPad, even here in Kapoho. YEAH. 

For some reason, this excitement of this journey we about to embark upon, has not hit me yet. Perhaps because it was only two months ago that we even heard about going. In the next few days, I trust I will get the jazzed buzz about going someplace completely different from anywhere I've ever been. 

Hey-I'm workin' it. Jazzed will start. Perhaps by the time I get us checked in for our flight???