Boyonne is a Jewel

Much like a speed limit, the Paris bus schedules are a suggestion. We arrive 10 early for our bus, it arrives 20 minutes late. In the meantime, I can only hope we make our 8:15 AM train to Bayonne. EuroRail is notorious for running on time, however we are in luck this morning. The Bordeaux St Jean train is also running late. So we continue our journey to the next phase. Smaller, slower and quieter times are ahead. 

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As we approach Bordeaux St Jean, my John says, 'wow, all of those grapes,'. To which I reply, 'duh, Bordeaux'. The train station is beautiful and filled with people heading somewhere. Punatic sorts, complete with their hula hoops, very French women and their splendid ways, families finishing holiday. We ate our packed lunch in the square, and headed to our next connection. Bayonne.

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If I didn't know that Notre Dame is in Paris, I could have been convinced it's in Bayonne.

We were privileged to discover the Bayonne Cathedral, an incredible Gothic designed cathedral that replaced Romanesque cathedrals that burned in 1258 and 1310. The town has been under the control of the Romans, English, Spain and finally the French. But it is thoroughly Basque. This is an area I could return to. Small town feel and the ambiance is delightful. But we walk.

We had our Credencial del Peregrino stamped for the first time today at the Bayonne Cathedral (Cathédrale Sainte-Marie de Bayonne) as it is on the pilgrim path.

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We dined at XTOTX, a Basque bar that had overflowed to the sidewalk. Blood sausage, mussels, calamarie and other tapas filled our bellies. It's just a damned good thing we start walking on Sunday, as the food in the past week has filled us just a bit too much. 

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Back in our room, we've reduced the packs, yet again. It won't be the last time. I suspect we will get a better feel for what we can, and cannot, live without in a few days.

Tomorrow, St Jean Pied de Port and our first albergue.

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