A Few Days Without Internet

A conglomerate set of days and thoughts

Ponferrada municipal albergue. No internet. Oh well. 

Oct 5 Sunday. A nice kitchen and Sunday. Again. This means groceries. 

 O'Cebreiro,pronounced oh-thay-bray-air-oh

October 6. 

One heck of a climb into the Provence  of Galacia today. Rain, wind and wanting to make time. Up to 1300 meters in one pass. This was the only time we've skipped showers after walking and just jumped into our sleeping  bags to warm up. 

Thatched roofs. This one was right next to our albergue. 

Triacastela,

Oct 7. Tuesday

There is something to be said for not having internet for a few days. I've skipped writing and enjoyed the people around us. We entered into the mystical, magical area of Galicia yesterday. It was some serious uphill yesterday in rain. Our albergue was a municipal, with 82 beds in our dormitory room. We supped at a the only local place and hit the sleeping bags, as it was very cold. 

While we had some wine, orujo (a local liquor, made from grape skins, similar to cognac), bread and cheese, we finally met one of the other residents of Hawaii that we have been hearing about. Oddly enough, he is originally from Lynden WA. Small world. He is walking with his brother and sister in law. Best guess on age is early 70s. I chuckled myself to sleep listening to a podcast of 'Wait wait, Don't Tell Me' that was taped at the Paramount in Seattle. Rick Steve's was the 'not my job' celebrity. It was such a full dorm room that I just hunkered down in the bag, put a scarf over my eyes and zoned out. 

What goes up, must come down. We spent today going downhill, with only a couple of mountain passes to climb up. Downhill is so much harder on our shins, knees and hips, that we progress slowly. Today was a 21 km day. We are taking advantage of our relative well being and getting some miles behind us. Again, we are in a municipal albergue that have rooms and bathrooms. No kitchen. Rooms of two bunk sets though. Much more civilized. We share a room with a couple of power hikers from Brazil.

We walked in rain today and yesterday, but it wasn't a constant downpour. Both days were like Seattle misty rain, with some deluges interspersed. 

We are both ready to get home. Santiago is about 130 km away. We hope our bodies hold up and that we get there in a week. When we finally go somewhere with internet, I'll post to the blog and start looking for return tickets. I REALLY want to get home in time to see the Palace production of La Cage aux Follies. 

Galacia is a beautiful region that reminds me of the Seattle area. Rain, green, dairy cattle, and everywhere beauty surrounds us.

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Oct 9 Thursday 

Mercadorio albergue. Nothing else - just an albergue. 

What day is this? John says today marks our 40th day. Do the math, and he's right. We have lost track of days and the 'real world' recently, because we've been without internet connection.

We've made some good time in the past days. Our bodies are not healing, but accepting that we are nearing our goal and will get help, once we return home. We spent a number of nights in municipal albergues and are now getting into an area that the private albergues are more plentiful and better suited for us.

The Galacias are spectacularly beautiful. We crossed over another mountain range on Tuesday, in the rain. Rain has been our companion for a few days, but the forecast looks good for walking without liquid sunshine for the next two couple of days. From here on out, we must have two stamps daily on our credentials. Starting in Sarria yesterday, we've been joined by 100km Compostella seekers. To get the Compostella, one must travel, by foot, at least 100km to Santiago. Folks with new, clean shoes and first time injuries as they attempt a climb are wishing us buen Camino. I had a long talk yesterday with a young woman we've been meeting at various places along the way about how difficult it is to not feel a bit judgmental about these fresh new walkers. Each person gets from the Camino what they give. They have only the time, inclination or desire to do the least amount necessary. We've gained wisdom from the Camino, along with our share of aches and blisters. It not possible to have a such a deep experience without having put in our time and heart.

We continue to be blessed by wonderful folks, amazing countryside and good health. Tonight we shared dinner with two women from Colorado and had a delightful time. One, and perhaps both, will, be out to visit us in Hawaii. 

We walked into a small chapel and I was taken by this baptismal font. 

It's cold outside, in this tiny berg, but some lower bunk snuggling and getting toasty make me ready for my upper bunk.

When I have internet again, I'll post a couple of entries and a photo montage of our last few days. We feel we will be in Santiago on Wednesday morning.

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Saturday. O Cero

Averaging 19 km daily

Only 100 km to go. 

Last night we were in Ventas De Naron at the albergue Casa Molar. 

Yeaterday morning, as we were passing out of the rather large town of Portomarin, we had the moment of sweet revenge. Well, perhaps not revenge. Comeuppance is a better word. 

After weeks of dodging groups bicyclists and witnessing their arrogant attitudes, yesterday morning, as a group went whizzing by, one man got his comeuppance. In the early morning fog and near darkness outside the town of Portomarin, John had to jump aside to keep from being hit by a group of four cyclists. Right after the group passed, we heard a POP. It was the distinct sound of a tire popping. We happened to be in a group about ten pilgrims...and there were chuckles and smiles among us all. I know from many conversations with other walkers that bicyclist are universally disliked on the Camino. The main reason is the extreme arrogance and inconsideration. We've been fortunate enough to meet a few cyclists who are not like that. 

Caldo Gallica. That is the soup in our bowls each night. The temperatures during the day are in the mid 50s. That's fine for for walking, but our rooms are very cold. As soon as we shower, we are honkering down into our sleeping bags to get warm. After warming up, I typically head for the communal area of the albergue in hopes of getting some internet. Sometimes there is reliable internet, but lately, it's been hard to get a good connection. Today the señora told me there is no pass code for the internet. Great. But while I sit in the bar, I find absolutely no connection. 

When there is a good connection, I'm working on getting flights home. We plan to be in Santiago in Tuesday afternoon, get our Compostella, get a room for some sleep and begin the journey home on Wednesday.

We shared our dinner time with two men from St John's NF. One of them, Hissan, is originally from Teran and came to the US over 40 years ago to study. When I asked him where he went to school, I got a big surprise. He went to College of Emporia, where my brother Rick went. They may have been there at the same time, but I think not, as Hissan is a bit older than Rick. 

Remember Frau Brucher, from Young Frankenstein? She is the owner of our freezing cold Hostal. But she doesn't speak German. Just the attitude. Forgive me, fare reader. I'm cold. I'm tired. And she won't turn on the heat. Oh well. We had some rabbit stew at a different Hostal. Off in a hurry tomorrow morning. Maybe we'll even find some wifi.