What Now? Another Surprise Body Surprise

Villar de Mazarife/Villavante/Hospital de Orbigo/Villares de Orbigo

Sept 30. 18 km

We continue on a path of small villages that are so accustomed to having and helping pilgrims that we feel welcomed in each one. Our morning stroll started on asphalt-yucko. No traffic, but the dreaded asphalt is hard on our bodies, especially after being spoiled by clay paths yesterday. After about an hour, the asphalt gave way to clay and rocks. The skies were partly cloudy and prevented the night to get too cold. 

We didn't stop for food, as we started the day with some yogurt, breakfast bars and coffee at Casa de Jesus.

Big bushes of rose hips have been our constant companion during the past number of weeks. They look like gigantic berries, brilliantly reflecting the sunshine that fall on them.

The autumn colors are beginning to become more evident. The beauty of the sunshine on the leaves was just too much of a temptation...I had to capture it.

We had a treacherous highway crossing before coming to an ancient Roman bridge, Puente Orbigo. The bridge was beautiful and is on the site of some famous jousting that helped settle who was the ruler...for that century. I've been amazed at how many conquerors have taken Spain and then been taken themselves.

The bridge is also the where the knight who Don Quixote was fashioned after did his deed of saving his valor. 

We stopped briefly in Villavante to review our map. As we walked on, John's shin splints flared up. the pain grew worse and worse as we continued. By the time we reached Vallares de Orbigo, he was in such pain that he could barely walk. Ibuprofen, Voltarin, ice and leg up. He napped all afternoon. All day he said he would be able to make it to Astorga tomorrow, about 15 km further down the road. Even though he is a bit better, I was able to convince him that there are options and that we can always stop with less kilometers being walked for the day. We'll see how it goes...

Our walk into Viallares de Orbigo was lines with beautidul trees.  The village is being renovated, like so many others along thee way. 

Our hospitera was from Belgium and has been running this really wonderful albergue for only three weeks. She made us dinner and breakfast.

With only eight pilgrims, I know we are still on the path less traveled. 

As fall is fast approaching, we will be sure to get some warm hats tomorrow. This evening we discussed the possibility of only going as far as Cruce del Ferro. We can return to finish another year. John is hurting so. I've told him that he has another 25 years of walking. It actually selfish if me...I don't want to have to push the wheelchair!

The Path Less Traveled

La Virgen del Camino/Chozas Abajo/Villar de Mazarife

Sept 29. 15.7 km. Continuing our short walks, as we break in the boots. 

Zounds! We were in a room with about 13 other people, there were NO seriously loud snorers!! Slept like a well fed and burped baby. What a treat. Our dinner, cena, was less than satisfying, but it filled the need. 

We left our albergue in the morning at 7:20 and by 7:45 we knew we had missed a turn. We had chosen to take the less traveled path today and I didn't read the directions closely until we were past the last turn for the natural trail. We overshot by only a few meters, and it was certainly worth turning back. Our choice of paths today is a much older path, steering clear of traffic and major highways. During our time on this quieter, more natural walkway, we saw less than 20 other pilgrims. By 8 AM we were completely away from the highways that the more traveled path followed and found an open, but nearly deserted, bar. It was time for a coffee.

After coffee, we continued on our quiet path. At one bend in the path, a man was selling fresh fruit, trinkets and was squeezing oranges for juice. It's been some days since I had juice and, even though is was still very chilly, decided it would be a dose of goodness for me. John bought a beautiful nectarine from the man and we continued on. Our boots are breaking in nicely and we started shredding layers to enjoy the warmth of the sunshine shortly after the juice break.

 

In the tiny village of Chozas Abajo, we stopped at the cultural center, aka the bar, and shared a bocadillo. With only a few kilometers to our final stop, we were rather leisurely. We got to Villar de Mazarife around noon and were able to check in immediately in Casa de Jesus.

Yep, we stayed in Jesus' house. Carpenter that He was, I really doubt that He would be impressed with the place. The Casa was a bit of a leaning, slanting maze of rooms and hallways. We had a room to ourselves, which is nice, with a door that squeaked enough to wake the dead. The floors listed decidedly to the starboard side, requiring some wall assistance to navigate during the night in darkness.

The walls were decorated with many years of graffiti, some good, some great and some just so-so. It made for some interesting reading, as we hugged the walls to get down the stairs!

After showering and laundry, we headed to the tienda to get some provisions for dinner. The selections at the store were better than expected, so I wandered the isles getting inspiration. Garbanzo, chicken and vegetable stew, along with a salad and bread was the outcome.

By the time all was set, we had eight other walkers joining us, representing European and North American homelands. With plenty of food, wine and laughter, we ended our evening together with an Italian, named Marcus, strumming the guitar in the courtyard chatting and sipping our wine.

There are givers and, there are takers in this world. Nearly all of our way has been graced with fellow givers. We had a close up of a taker in, of all places, an albergue named after the greatest giver of all. A fellow from Spain, mid fifties, was the picture of a taker. No details necessary. As I've mentioned before, these notes that I publish serve as a reminder for me. I shall remember the details and the feelings expressed by my fellow pilgrims of this man, without details in print.

John is on the mend and we we look forward to continuing our journey tomorrow.

One More Photo From Leon

Wee hours and I cannot sleep. In reviewing my pictures from Leon, there is one that I must share. 

Leon is know for their sausage and cured meat.  When we walked by this bar,with the meat hanging and the bar scene in full swing, I couldn't help but this....this place truly IS a meat market. 

Finding a Modern Church on the Camino

Leon/de Virgen del Camino

Sept 28. 8 km. So short, to break in new boots

It was a short walk to the open coffee shop, then on to La Virgen del Camino. We found our albergue around 9:30, but they didn't open until noon. With plenty of time, in this town, we went to the church. The church is new, built in the last 30-40 years. Above the main door are large bronze statures of the apostles, with St James looking out toward Santiago, and the Virgin floating above them all. The church is built on the site where a shepard, in the early 16th century, saw a vision of of the Virgin who told him to throw a rock and build a church where it landed.

It is said many miracles have happened in this place.  Our timing was perfect and we were able to attend the early Sunday mass.

Laundry done, yoga stretches completed, resting time was good. Our very short walk was the right idea. The blisters look good,so we double our distance for tomorrow.

Sunday  means most stores are closed. The albergue has a lovely kitchen and dining area, but with no tiendas open, we must eat out...again. I'd love a nice bowl of soup tonight, but we are subject to what may be on the menus in the various bars.

As we have been passing through the major cities, such as Sahagun and Leon,pilgrimage routes from other points have been merging with ours, from St Jean de Pier du Port. Being very late in September, I think the number of pilgrims is greatly diminished from the summer months. Never the less, we have noticed more and more peregrinos from different starting places.

After a brief rain shower, I've retired for the evening. For only second time since we've been on the Camino, I'm in a lower bunk tonight. The steps to the upper bunk were terrible and the lower next to john was open. The best part is that no one has claimed the upper bunk. At 9 PM, it's doubtful that anyone else will be coming in to the albergue.

It's a minor Camino diaster to have my little,plastic'in my pocket' TP bag blow,out. Luckily, I have a replacement. Such are the small miracles of life!  

---------

City Life of Leon

Mansilla de las Mulas/Leon

Friday/Saturday Sept 26 & 27. 12 fast km

We rather thought that we would be able to lounge around on Friday morning, but when some man turned on the light in our dormitory room at 6:05, that idea was abandoned. I was already awake and dressed to go to the common area to have some vending machine coffee and internet time. John was just beginning to open his eyes when the overhead lights came on. Many people were still asleep and when I asked if I could turn off the lights, the fellow bellowed that he needed to have the light to pack.

Pilgrim considerations:

*pack as much as possible in the evening

*what needs packing in the morning should be done quietly

*use a torch if you need light

*don't turn lights on if there is even one person asleep

There...my rant for the day is done. Thank you, kind reader, for allowing me to vent.

The coffee vending machine needed servicing. Wow. Imagine that. We probably drank the machine dry the day before. I sat in the common area for a while,watching pilgrims prepare for their day and writing. I was wearing almost every layer of clothing I have with me. It was a very chilly morning. John needs another jacket, so we will add that to our list for Leon.

The bus station is attached to a bar. Brilliant. We had coffee con leche while we waited for our bus. Other pilgrims came along and after a bit of a wait, we piled onto the bus to Leon. We saw friends walking, as the Camino goes right beside the highway for a while outside of Mansilla de las Mulas. Riding through the outskirts of industrial Leon was a different feeling, buzzing along the highway with 75 other people. The young woman who is taking on the Camino cooking episode, was giddy. It was funny watching her.

Ward, the piano player decided he needs a portable, roll up keyboard for his next journey on the Camino. Ward has also decided to move back to his native Belgium as soon as possible, after he finishes the Camino. He's ready for his native European culture again, after 12 years in Maine.

Upon our arrival in Leon, we left our friends at the bus terminal, found a map and began walking to the Hostal. While on the way we passed the recommended sporting goods store. Since it was early, and we wouldn't be able to check in, we decided to go shopping. We each found the pair of boots that will carry is the rest of the way to Santiago. We will be walking as much as possible in Leon to begin breaking them in. Three days after we leave Leon, we have another set of mountains to climb, so need the boots to be as broken in as possible. We met other walkers in the store in search of items for the camino's final, very chilly, miles.

With new boots in our shopping bags, we continued our way through this ancient city (founded in first century BC) to our Hostal. We were thrilled to see the familiar faces of Min and Haley, from NZ, walking toward us. They have been in Leon for three days and leave tomorrow. I've decided there must be some reason they keep crossing our path, but I sure don't know what it is.

When we found Hostal Guzman el Bueno, only two blocks from the Leon Cathedral, we asked if we could just leave our packs, so we could see some sights without the burden on our backs. While we were getting them off, and gathering the camera and guidebook, El Señor asked if we would like one or two nights. In an instant, John said two. So we get an extra day in Leon. Before we could head out the door, El Señor advised us that our room was ready, if we wished to check in. What a pleasant bonus to our morning.

The room is a typical Spanish Hostal. Private bathroom, with a tiny bathtub, sink, toilet and bedet. The bed is full sized and overly soft, and we have a little balcony that gets the afternoon sun. There is a closet to ditch the backpacks so we don't trip over them. I must say though, however small, the bathtub works. On Saturday I drenched myself with some olive oil since the air is so dry here. After the dousing of olive oil and a hot bath my skin is much happier. It will only last a few hours but feels great.

After a restful afternoon of seeing the city and breaking in our new boots on Friday, we gathered at a bar near the Leon Cathedral with the group of pilgrims we've been seeing for a few days. It was the last night for Tomas, the chef, and we wanted to be sure he was sent off in a big way. John and I joined the group for a while, sharing some sangria and tapas.

We say prayers for safe travel and a good life for Tomas, who is at the end of the table in this picture.  A number of other people in the large group are heading home from Leon also and will continue their way during their vacations next year. It is so different for the Europeans, being able to continue year after year, one week at a time. Our flight here is so long and expensive, thus adding to our motivation to continue to the end. Among the people at our table was a familiar face to John. When John discovered the young man, Jessie, was from Renton and his dad is a pastor of a Renton church, John asked if he had been in Scouts. When the answer was yes, they started figuring out from they knew each other. They didn't figure it out, but I'm sure John will have an 'AH-HA' moment. 

While on the square with our pilgrim friends, we were treated to a Castilian parade of traditional music.

The music was entirely of drums and a reed instrument that sounds like a bagpipe, without the bag. The costumes were beautiful. There were hundreds of people wandering the square, enjoying the view of the cathedral, the various sculptures, the parade and snapping pictures. Our crazy group young friends had a goal of photo bombing ten times, and I think they succeeded, as there are so many pictures being taken by tourists.

Saturday was a sleep in for John, until 8 AM. I was awake at 6, as usual. We headed out for some coffee and breakfast, then went in search of various items we need to continue. Unfortunately, we were unable to find a warmer fleece jacket for John. We hope to track one down in out next bigger town before we hit the mountains in a few days.

In the afternoon, we went to the a Cathedral of Leon.

It's spires, high ceilings and stained glass windows are an amazing example of gothic architecture.  No pictures can do this cathedral justice. There are hundreds of windows fulled with stained glass, most of them telling a story of biblical times or are various parts of Christian symbology. The cathedral is a museum and not used for services anymore. As we set out later in the afternoon to market for breakfast items, there was another Castilian parade with dancing as we followed the stream of costumed dancers, we found the stage in a plaza and enjoyed more cultural dancing. Later in the evening, while,searching for a place for an evening meal, we came across a large group of costumed knights. At least we think that's what they were, such as the Knights Templar. This group of knights had an impressive band of tympani and low brass horns, giving them regal marching music. Everywhere there were crowds of locals and tourists enjoying the displays of all the various cultures and traditions of this amazing area.

I look forward to going back to the walk tomorrow. I feel lazy and a bit anxious. Unless one of us has a medical issue, I doubt we will make another two day stop, until we reach Santiago. While the history of the city, and the change of pace are interesting, I find myself overwhelmed. The solitude of the walk has spoiled me for quiet. Thankfully, John's blisters are not getting worse. They aren't healed, but we are hopeful they will be soon. He also has some pain in his Achilles' tendon, that flared up again after a run across the street yesterday. We will,go,slowly for the next few days, beginning with only 8 km, and working our way up to 20 and 25 km daily.

Late Night Thoughts

2:45 AM Wednesday night/early Thursday morning

Random thoughts during the snoring night. 

I have a great part of convertible pants, the kind that the legs zip off and become shorts. They dry fast, have pulls in the bottom of the legs to keep bugs out and look good. Well, they did look good. I've had to belt them on for the past couple of weeks so much that I'm beginning to look like PeeWee Herman. I hope to find a better fitting pair of pants in Leon. 

I've scared dozens of frogs and toads as I sneak into the grasses to tee-tee. Poor things. Just living their froggy and toady lives, and in plops some shoes and a PeeWee Herman squatter. 

I wonder what John's oxygen level is these days. He's not used his cpap (way to heavy and power isn't always available) for weeks. 

Is anyone else awake, listening to the snorers, in this albergue?  

If we keep eating the way we were starting out, the PeeWee pants might start fitting again. Peregrino meals are so filling, and always have dessert. The hosts are hurt if you don't eat it all. I'm hurt if I do. ACK. Blimp sighting on the Camino!

Drat - I just got an email that our beloved book store in Pahoa is closing. Our credits will be transferred to the sister store in Hilo, but there goes another wonderful Pahoa business. 

Why, oh why, have I developed an allergy to beer? My beloved beer. Each day I've been enjoying a beer with lunch and suffering from a stuffy nose right after. Another DRAT. Beer only occasionally, if I'm willing to take the consequences. DRAT.

Why don't people turn off the tip-tap keypad sounds on their devices? Really now, so they need to hear every single letter sound off?

GO TO SLEEP!!!

-------

Burgo del Ranero/Reliegos/Mansilla de las Mulas

Sept 25 18.8 km 11.6 miles

It was a very chilly 44 degrees when we silently left our beds and roommates at 6:50 AM this morning. The sky was crystal clear and the northern hemisphere stars shined brightly. The moon is new, so wasn't around to brighten our way. Our early departure is due to the fact that we didn't have a reservation for this evening and were counting on getting into the municipal albergue. When John checked the temperature after we left town, on his fancy-schmancy watch, it was 41. Freakin' BURRRRRR. 

As the sun came up, it cast a red glow upon the plowed fields, making the red clay soil even redder (more red?). Our entire world that we were walking through was such an incredible color. Most mornings have held clouds over the eastern skies, mellowing the colors. Not so on this fine, Kansas type, chilly autumn morning. 

I did much better this morning without my coffee. No vending machine, and certainly no bars open for coffee in the tiny village of Burgo del Ranero. Our first stop was around 8:30 AM, on a cold concrete bench, in a little path side picnic area. The empanadas I bought the night before hit the spot, along with a health dose of water.

The shadows cast by the raising sun were spectacular. Just look at that physique. Complete with a dangling pack strap.

We stopped in Reliegos for coffee con leche. John had a tortilla, but I set apart from the typical morning fare with a splendid salad of terrific tasting tomatoes, onions, peppers and olives. Life with a salad for breakfast is fine with me. After visiting with a couple from Halifax, we took off again. From the time we left our coffee break, until we reached our stopping point for the day, only 2 people passed us. Either we are speeding up, or everyone decided to just sit in the sun and enjoy more coffee.

John's blisters are on the mend. I pulled the thread last night and put on Compeed. We checked them after we arrived at our albergue this afternoon and they are doing much better. A shopping trip to a sports store is in order in Leon. John needs something that will not aggravate more blisters. I need something with more support. That love/hate relationship I had with my boots is only a memory now. These replacement shoes just don't make it. And we have some serious mountains to get over before we get to Santiago De Compostella. 

Leon tomorrow. We might do two nights, but probably not. With just over 200 miles to go, we are both beginning to crave our home. With the lack of well marked pilgrim paths, dangerous highway crossings and advice from pilgrims who have experience, we are opting for taking a bus into Leon. It's such an industrial city and the traffic, smog (we could see it this morning) and the smokestack fraught outskirts are simply more than we want to deal with. Are we cheating? No. We are preserving our lives. People have died crossing the non-pilgrim friendly highways. 

I was stressing where we would stay in Leon, but the hostess made a reservation for us at a pension this afternoon. Our stay in Leon will be comfy. 

We got into the municipal albergue. For better or worse, it's what we have tonight. The cost is only 5€ We have a dormitory room with 7 bunks. 14 pilgrims. 

Snoring is the norm. But our hostess has a terrific sense of humor.

Surgery on another pilgrim. 

We were blessed again with the wonderful camaraderie of people from all over the world, and a dinner by Tomas and Ward.

While John did dishes again, for some 17 folks, Tomas played guitar. After the dishes were done, our chefs went to a bar that reportedly had a piano. Ward's fingers had been itching for a keyboard and he played on and on, while we sang. The meal last night was the last the two will do together, as Tomas has finished his Canimo. He went from Leon to Santiago last year and tomorrow he hits Leon. Ward plans to carry on, and has Claire from Perth to help. They fed 171 people on the Camino. We were blessed to be included in their meals.

John says it's f-ing cold. It's not f-ing cold. That's when the temp is below freezing and the wind is blowing and it's sleeting. We aren't there. But the autumn weather, as we near Santiago de Compostela, will be colder and might be f-ing cold in the mountains. The new shoes need to be warm too.

Just say yes...to vending machine coffee

Sahagun/Bercianos del Real Camino/El Burgos Ranero

Sept 24. 17.7 km. 11 miles

It was a sleep in kind of morning. With no pilgrims to awaken us, we snoozed until after 6 AM. After blister patrol and prep, we struck out around 7:45. In a town the size of Sahagun, we certainly anticipated seeing at least one bar open for some coffee. That was not to be. With a lowly coffee vending machine in the foyer of our hostel, being passed by as we left, I realized how my morning mood is improved by coffee. We finally had coffee 10 km later. Lesson learned today...say yes to the vending machine, unless you are damned sure there is coffee available within a few km. 

When we stopped for coffee and empanadas in Bercianos del Real Camino, our 10 km walk was rewarded with wonderful food and great people. We shared a table with Willy Nagelmeier, from Germany. Well into his 60s, he is riding his bike from home in Germany, to Santiago. This is not a bike with umpteen gears. His has two and he is carrying some 50 kg of gear with him. He told me his home, in broken English, and of his family members who immigrated to the US in 1823 and that their name is now Nogelmeier. And one is a professor at university of Hawaii. 

I promised Willy that I would try to find his distant cousin via email at UH and send him the picture. Help me find professor Nogelmeier, all my UH friends.

Our path today was easy walking, on a mostly gravel, flat surface, which is good for John.  His blisters are healing slowly, and we see progress each day.  We are trying to increasing our miles daily. We hope to be in Leon on Friday and will spend an extra day there. John now has Compeed on both feet and says he's doing well. Tomorrow will be about 17 km again.

My prayers todaybwerevfor James. Twenty five years ago I was in last trimester with James and he came to mind.  He such a kind and giving heart but also has a monkey, that I pray is under control.  I pray that he is happy in life. 

We were passed by many people today, who had only their light daypacks. I chatted with some and discovered that they are a part of a tour group. They started in St Jean Pied du Port, like us, but have their rooms booked for them and their bags shipped each day. Some expressed interest in how we have done our walk, carrying our belongings,and finding a place daily. I must say, I've gotten passed feeling like these people are 'cheating' on the Camino. They just do it differently than we do. My ability to judge others is not an asset at all, and I pray that God will help me with that. Perhaps His help is becoming evident here.

There are also the racers, who walk very fast, sometimes with their backs, sometimes not. They seem to have something they must prove. I feel a bit sorry for them, as they must be missing the beauty. I wonder if they are pilgrims, or just out for an adventure.

Our albergue in El Burgos Ranaro for the evening is La Laguna and has a beautiful courtyard, highly amped up host, and isn't full. Perhaps this is what happens when the weather changes - fewer pilgrims. I suspect though that we have just taken a bit shorter walk and the bulk of people are staying a few km beyond us. Tonight we shared a meal with 3 Germans, 1 Cuban and 2 Belgians. One of the Germans and one of the Belgians have made it their mission to cook every night they are in a place with a cocina. Last night marked 152 people they have cooked for on their Camino. It is a treat to sit with others and have a real chance to visit. We gave them money for the food and John did the dishes (just like at home).

One of the young chefs finishes his camino in Leon, but the other man said he would carry on, as long as he could.  Thanks for the great food and evening, Tomas and Ward ( seated at the ends of the table). 

At nearly 2 AM, it is 51 degrees F outside. The forecast is for 44 by morning. We are geared up for dressing warmly as we head out tomorrow. I'm really glad I got that extra fleece in Sahagun. It appears that it will be well used.

My location is as close as it can get. The Autoservice is also where the local tienda is, only a block from our albergue.