Just say yes...to vending machine coffee

Sahagun/Bercianos del Real Camino/El Burgos Ranero

Sept 24. 17.7 km. 11 miles

It was a sleep in kind of morning. With no pilgrims to awaken us, we snoozed until after 6 AM. After blister patrol and prep, we struck out around 7:45. In a town the size of Sahagun, we certainly anticipated seeing at least one bar open for some coffee. That was not to be. With a lowly coffee vending machine in the foyer of our hostel, being passed by as we left, I realized how my morning mood is improved by coffee. We finally had coffee 10 km later. Lesson learned today...say yes to the vending machine, unless you are damned sure there is coffee available within a few km. 

When we stopped for coffee and empanadas in Bercianos del Real Camino, our 10 km walk was rewarded with wonderful food and great people. We shared a table with Willy Nagelmeier, from Germany. Well into his 60s, he is riding his bike from home in Germany, to Santiago. This is not a bike with umpteen gears. His has two and he is carrying some 50 kg of gear with him. He told me his home, in broken English, and of his family members who immigrated to the US in 1823 and that their name is now Nogelmeier. And one is a professor at university of Hawaii. 

I promised Willy that I would try to find his distant cousin via email at UH and send him the picture. Help me find professor Nogelmeier, all my UH friends.

Our path today was easy walking, on a mostly gravel, flat surface, which is good for John.  His blisters are healing slowly, and we see progress each day.  We are trying to increasing our miles daily. We hope to be in Leon on Friday and will spend an extra day there. John now has Compeed on both feet and says he's doing well. Tomorrow will be about 17 km again.

My prayers todaybwerevfor James. Twenty five years ago I was in last trimester with James and he came to mind.  He such a kind and giving heart but also has a monkey, that I pray is under control.  I pray that he is happy in life. 

We were passed by many people today, who had only their light daypacks. I chatted with some and discovered that they are a part of a tour group. They started in St Jean Pied du Port, like us, but have their rooms booked for them and their bags shipped each day. Some expressed interest in how we have done our walk, carrying our belongings,and finding a place daily. I must say, I've gotten passed feeling like these people are 'cheating' on the Camino. They just do it differently than we do. My ability to judge others is not an asset at all, and I pray that God will help me with that. Perhaps His help is becoming evident here.

There are also the racers, who walk very fast, sometimes with their backs, sometimes not. They seem to have something they must prove. I feel a bit sorry for them, as they must be missing the beauty. I wonder if they are pilgrims, or just out for an adventure.

Our albergue in El Burgos Ranaro for the evening is La Laguna and has a beautiful courtyard, highly amped up host, and isn't full. Perhaps this is what happens when the weather changes - fewer pilgrims. I suspect though that we have just taken a bit shorter walk and the bulk of people are staying a few km beyond us. Tonight we shared a meal with 3 Germans, 1 Cuban and 2 Belgians. One of the Germans and one of the Belgians have made it their mission to cook every night they are in a place with a cocina. Last night marked 152 people they have cooked for on their Camino. It is a treat to sit with others and have a real chance to visit. We gave them money for the food and John did the dishes (just like at home).

One of the young chefs finishes his camino in Leon, but the other man said he would carry on, as long as he could.  Thanks for the great food and evening, Tomas and Ward ( seated at the ends of the table). 

At nearly 2 AM, it is 51 degrees F outside. The forecast is for 44 by morning. We are geared up for dressing warmly as we head out tomorrow. I'm really glad I got that extra fleece in Sahagun. It appears that it will be well used.

My location is as close as it can get. The Autoservice is also where the local tienda is, only a block from our albergue.