The Path Less Traveled

La Virgen del Camino/Chozas Abajo/Villar de Mazarife

Sept 29. 15.7 km. Continuing our short walks, as we break in the boots. 

Zounds! We were in a room with about 13 other people, there were NO seriously loud snorers!! Slept like a well fed and burped baby. What a treat. Our dinner, cena, was less than satisfying, but it filled the need. 

We left our albergue in the morning at 7:20 and by 7:45 we knew we had missed a turn. We had chosen to take the less traveled path today and I didn't read the directions closely until we were past the last turn for the natural trail. We overshot by only a few meters, and it was certainly worth turning back. Our choice of paths today is a much older path, steering clear of traffic and major highways. During our time on this quieter, more natural walkway, we saw less than 20 other pilgrims. By 8 AM we were completely away from the highways that the more traveled path followed and found an open, but nearly deserted, bar. It was time for a coffee.

After coffee, we continued on our quiet path. At one bend in the path, a man was selling fresh fruit, trinkets and was squeezing oranges for juice. It's been some days since I had juice and, even though is was still very chilly, decided it would be a dose of goodness for me. John bought a beautiful nectarine from the man and we continued on. Our boots are breaking in nicely and we started shredding layers to enjoy the warmth of the sunshine shortly after the juice break.

 

In the tiny village of Chozas Abajo, we stopped at the cultural center, aka the bar, and shared a bocadillo. With only a few kilometers to our final stop, we were rather leisurely. We got to Villar de Mazarife around noon and were able to check in immediately in Casa de Jesus.

Yep, we stayed in Jesus' house. Carpenter that He was, I really doubt that He would be impressed with the place. The Casa was a bit of a leaning, slanting maze of rooms and hallways. We had a room to ourselves, which is nice, with a door that squeaked enough to wake the dead. The floors listed decidedly to the starboard side, requiring some wall assistance to navigate during the night in darkness.

The walls were decorated with many years of graffiti, some good, some great and some just so-so. It made for some interesting reading, as we hugged the walls to get down the stairs!

After showering and laundry, we headed to the tienda to get some provisions for dinner. The selections at the store were better than expected, so I wandered the isles getting inspiration. Garbanzo, chicken and vegetable stew, along with a salad and bread was the outcome.

By the time all was set, we had eight other walkers joining us, representing European and North American homelands. With plenty of food, wine and laughter, we ended our evening together with an Italian, named Marcus, strumming the guitar in the courtyard chatting and sipping our wine.

There are givers and, there are takers in this world. Nearly all of our way has been graced with fellow givers. We had a close up of a taker in, of all places, an albergue named after the greatest giver of all. A fellow from Spain, mid fifties, was the picture of a taker. No details necessary. As I've mentioned before, these notes that I publish serve as a reminder for me. I shall remember the details and the feelings expressed by my fellow pilgrims of this man, without details in print.

John is on the mend and we we look forward to continuing our journey tomorrow.

One More Photo From Leon

Wee hours and I cannot sleep. In reviewing my pictures from Leon, there is one that I must share. 

Leon is know for their sausage and cured meat.  When we walked by this bar,with the meat hanging and the bar scene in full swing, I couldn't help but this....this place truly IS a meat market. 

Finding a Modern Church on the Camino

Leon/de Virgen del Camino

Sept 28. 8 km. So short, to break in new boots

It was a short walk to the open coffee shop, then on to La Virgen del Camino. We found our albergue around 9:30, but they didn't open until noon. With plenty of time, in this town, we went to the church. The church is new, built in the last 30-40 years. Above the main door are large bronze statures of the apostles, with St James looking out toward Santiago, and the Virgin floating above them all. The church is built on the site where a shepard, in the early 16th century, saw a vision of of the Virgin who told him to throw a rock and build a church where it landed.

It is said many miracles have happened in this place.  Our timing was perfect and we were able to attend the early Sunday mass.

Laundry done, yoga stretches completed, resting time was good. Our very short walk was the right idea. The blisters look good,so we double our distance for tomorrow.

Sunday  means most stores are closed. The albergue has a lovely kitchen and dining area, but with no tiendas open, we must eat out...again. I'd love a nice bowl of soup tonight, but we are subject to what may be on the menus in the various bars.

As we have been passing through the major cities, such as Sahagun and Leon,pilgrimage routes from other points have been merging with ours, from St Jean de Pier du Port. Being very late in September, I think the number of pilgrims is greatly diminished from the summer months. Never the less, we have noticed more and more peregrinos from different starting places.

After a brief rain shower, I've retired for the evening. For only second time since we've been on the Camino, I'm in a lower bunk tonight. The steps to the upper bunk were terrible and the lower next to john was open. The best part is that no one has claimed the upper bunk. At 9 PM, it's doubtful that anyone else will be coming in to the albergue.

It's a minor Camino diaster to have my little,plastic'in my pocket' TP bag blow,out. Luckily, I have a replacement. Such are the small miracles of life!  

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City Life of Leon

Mansilla de las Mulas/Leon

Friday/Saturday Sept 26 & 27. 12 fast km

We rather thought that we would be able to lounge around on Friday morning, but when some man turned on the light in our dormitory room at 6:05, that idea was abandoned. I was already awake and dressed to go to the common area to have some vending machine coffee and internet time. John was just beginning to open his eyes when the overhead lights came on. Many people were still asleep and when I asked if I could turn off the lights, the fellow bellowed that he needed to have the light to pack.

Pilgrim considerations:

*pack as much as possible in the evening

*what needs packing in the morning should be done quietly

*use a torch if you need light

*don't turn lights on if there is even one person asleep

There...my rant for the day is done. Thank you, kind reader, for allowing me to vent.

The coffee vending machine needed servicing. Wow. Imagine that. We probably drank the machine dry the day before. I sat in the common area for a while,watching pilgrims prepare for their day and writing. I was wearing almost every layer of clothing I have with me. It was a very chilly morning. John needs another jacket, so we will add that to our list for Leon.

The bus station is attached to a bar. Brilliant. We had coffee con leche while we waited for our bus. Other pilgrims came along and after a bit of a wait, we piled onto the bus to Leon. We saw friends walking, as the Camino goes right beside the highway for a while outside of Mansilla de las Mulas. Riding through the outskirts of industrial Leon was a different feeling, buzzing along the highway with 75 other people. The young woman who is taking on the Camino cooking episode, was giddy. It was funny watching her.

Ward, the piano player decided he needs a portable, roll up keyboard for his next journey on the Camino. Ward has also decided to move back to his native Belgium as soon as possible, after he finishes the Camino. He's ready for his native European culture again, after 12 years in Maine.

Upon our arrival in Leon, we left our friends at the bus terminal, found a map and began walking to the Hostal. While on the way we passed the recommended sporting goods store. Since it was early, and we wouldn't be able to check in, we decided to go shopping. We each found the pair of boots that will carry is the rest of the way to Santiago. We will be walking as much as possible in Leon to begin breaking them in. Three days after we leave Leon, we have another set of mountains to climb, so need the boots to be as broken in as possible. We met other walkers in the store in search of items for the camino's final, very chilly, miles.

With new boots in our shopping bags, we continued our way through this ancient city (founded in first century BC) to our Hostal. We were thrilled to see the familiar faces of Min and Haley, from NZ, walking toward us. They have been in Leon for three days and leave tomorrow. I've decided there must be some reason they keep crossing our path, but I sure don't know what it is.

When we found Hostal Guzman el Bueno, only two blocks from the Leon Cathedral, we asked if we could just leave our packs, so we could see some sights without the burden on our backs. While we were getting them off, and gathering the camera and guidebook, El Señor asked if we would like one or two nights. In an instant, John said two. So we get an extra day in Leon. Before we could head out the door, El Señor advised us that our room was ready, if we wished to check in. What a pleasant bonus to our morning.

The room is a typical Spanish Hostal. Private bathroom, with a tiny bathtub, sink, toilet and bedet. The bed is full sized and overly soft, and we have a little balcony that gets the afternoon sun. There is a closet to ditch the backpacks so we don't trip over them. I must say though, however small, the bathtub works. On Saturday I drenched myself with some olive oil since the air is so dry here. After the dousing of olive oil and a hot bath my skin is much happier. It will only last a few hours but feels great.

After a restful afternoon of seeing the city and breaking in our new boots on Friday, we gathered at a bar near the Leon Cathedral with the group of pilgrims we've been seeing for a few days. It was the last night for Tomas, the chef, and we wanted to be sure he was sent off in a big way. John and I joined the group for a while, sharing some sangria and tapas.

We say prayers for safe travel and a good life for Tomas, who is at the end of the table in this picture.  A number of other people in the large group are heading home from Leon also and will continue their way during their vacations next year. It is so different for the Europeans, being able to continue year after year, one week at a time. Our flight here is so long and expensive, thus adding to our motivation to continue to the end. Among the people at our table was a familiar face to John. When John discovered the young man, Jessie, was from Renton and his dad is a pastor of a Renton church, John asked if he had been in Scouts. When the answer was yes, they started figuring out from they knew each other. They didn't figure it out, but I'm sure John will have an 'AH-HA' moment. 

While on the square with our pilgrim friends, we were treated to a Castilian parade of traditional music.

The music was entirely of drums and a reed instrument that sounds like a bagpipe, without the bag. The costumes were beautiful. There were hundreds of people wandering the square, enjoying the view of the cathedral, the various sculptures, the parade and snapping pictures. Our crazy group young friends had a goal of photo bombing ten times, and I think they succeeded, as there are so many pictures being taken by tourists.

Saturday was a sleep in for John, until 8 AM. I was awake at 6, as usual. We headed out for some coffee and breakfast, then went in search of various items we need to continue. Unfortunately, we were unable to find a warmer fleece jacket for John. We hope to track one down in out next bigger town before we hit the mountains in a few days.

In the afternoon, we went to the a Cathedral of Leon.

It's spires, high ceilings and stained glass windows are an amazing example of gothic architecture.  No pictures can do this cathedral justice. There are hundreds of windows fulled with stained glass, most of them telling a story of biblical times or are various parts of Christian symbology. The cathedral is a museum and not used for services anymore. As we set out later in the afternoon to market for breakfast items, there was another Castilian parade with dancing as we followed the stream of costumed dancers, we found the stage in a plaza and enjoyed more cultural dancing. Later in the evening, while,searching for a place for an evening meal, we came across a large group of costumed knights. At least we think that's what they were, such as the Knights Templar. This group of knights had an impressive band of tympani and low brass horns, giving them regal marching music. Everywhere there were crowds of locals and tourists enjoying the displays of all the various cultures and traditions of this amazing area.

I look forward to going back to the walk tomorrow. I feel lazy and a bit anxious. Unless one of us has a medical issue, I doubt we will make another two day stop, until we reach Santiago. While the history of the city, and the change of pace are interesting, I find myself overwhelmed. The solitude of the walk has spoiled me for quiet. Thankfully, John's blisters are not getting worse. They aren't healed, but we are hopeful they will be soon. He also has some pain in his Achilles' tendon, that flared up again after a run across the street yesterday. We will,go,slowly for the next few days, beginning with only 8 km, and working our way up to 20 and 25 km daily.

Late Night Thoughts

2:45 AM Wednesday night/early Thursday morning

Random thoughts during the snoring night. 

I have a great part of convertible pants, the kind that the legs zip off and become shorts. They dry fast, have pulls in the bottom of the legs to keep bugs out and look good. Well, they did look good. I've had to belt them on for the past couple of weeks so much that I'm beginning to look like PeeWee Herman. I hope to find a better fitting pair of pants in Leon. 

I've scared dozens of frogs and toads as I sneak into the grasses to tee-tee. Poor things. Just living their froggy and toady lives, and in plops some shoes and a PeeWee Herman squatter. 

I wonder what John's oxygen level is these days. He's not used his cpap (way to heavy and power isn't always available) for weeks. 

Is anyone else awake, listening to the snorers, in this albergue?  

If we keep eating the way we were starting out, the PeeWee pants might start fitting again. Peregrino meals are so filling, and always have dessert. The hosts are hurt if you don't eat it all. I'm hurt if I do. ACK. Blimp sighting on the Camino!

Drat - I just got an email that our beloved book store in Pahoa is closing. Our credits will be transferred to the sister store in Hilo, but there goes another wonderful Pahoa business. 

Why, oh why, have I developed an allergy to beer? My beloved beer. Each day I've been enjoying a beer with lunch and suffering from a stuffy nose right after. Another DRAT. Beer only occasionally, if I'm willing to take the consequences. DRAT.

Why don't people turn off the tip-tap keypad sounds on their devices? Really now, so they need to hear every single letter sound off?

GO TO SLEEP!!!

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Burgo del Ranero/Reliegos/Mansilla de las Mulas

Sept 25 18.8 km 11.6 miles

It was a very chilly 44 degrees when we silently left our beds and roommates at 6:50 AM this morning. The sky was crystal clear and the northern hemisphere stars shined brightly. The moon is new, so wasn't around to brighten our way. Our early departure is due to the fact that we didn't have a reservation for this evening and were counting on getting into the municipal albergue. When John checked the temperature after we left town, on his fancy-schmancy watch, it was 41. Freakin' BURRRRRR. 

As the sun came up, it cast a red glow upon the plowed fields, making the red clay soil even redder (more red?). Our entire world that we were walking through was such an incredible color. Most mornings have held clouds over the eastern skies, mellowing the colors. Not so on this fine, Kansas type, chilly autumn morning. 

I did much better this morning without my coffee. No vending machine, and certainly no bars open for coffee in the tiny village of Burgo del Ranero. Our first stop was around 8:30 AM, on a cold concrete bench, in a little path side picnic area. The empanadas I bought the night before hit the spot, along with a health dose of water.

The shadows cast by the raising sun were spectacular. Just look at that physique. Complete with a dangling pack strap.

We stopped in Reliegos for coffee con leche. John had a tortilla, but I set apart from the typical morning fare with a splendid salad of terrific tasting tomatoes, onions, peppers and olives. Life with a salad for breakfast is fine with me. After visiting with a couple from Halifax, we took off again. From the time we left our coffee break, until we reached our stopping point for the day, only 2 people passed us. Either we are speeding up, or everyone decided to just sit in the sun and enjoy more coffee.

John's blisters are on the mend. I pulled the thread last night and put on Compeed. We checked them after we arrived at our albergue this afternoon and they are doing much better. A shopping trip to a sports store is in order in Leon. John needs something that will not aggravate more blisters. I need something with more support. That love/hate relationship I had with my boots is only a memory now. These replacement shoes just don't make it. And we have some serious mountains to get over before we get to Santiago De Compostella. 

Leon tomorrow. We might do two nights, but probably not. With just over 200 miles to go, we are both beginning to crave our home. With the lack of well marked pilgrim paths, dangerous highway crossings and advice from pilgrims who have experience, we are opting for taking a bus into Leon. It's such an industrial city and the traffic, smog (we could see it this morning) and the smokestack fraught outskirts are simply more than we want to deal with. Are we cheating? No. We are preserving our lives. People have died crossing the non-pilgrim friendly highways. 

I was stressing where we would stay in Leon, but the hostess made a reservation for us at a pension this afternoon. Our stay in Leon will be comfy. 

We got into the municipal albergue. For better or worse, it's what we have tonight. The cost is only 5€ We have a dormitory room with 7 bunks. 14 pilgrims. 

Snoring is the norm. But our hostess has a terrific sense of humor.

Surgery on another pilgrim. 

We were blessed again with the wonderful camaraderie of people from all over the world, and a dinner by Tomas and Ward.

While John did dishes again, for some 17 folks, Tomas played guitar. After the dishes were done, our chefs went to a bar that reportedly had a piano. Ward's fingers had been itching for a keyboard and he played on and on, while we sang. The meal last night was the last the two will do together, as Tomas has finished his Canimo. He went from Leon to Santiago last year and tomorrow he hits Leon. Ward plans to carry on, and has Claire from Perth to help. They fed 171 people on the Camino. We were blessed to be included in their meals.

John says it's f-ing cold. It's not f-ing cold. That's when the temp is below freezing and the wind is blowing and it's sleeting. We aren't there. But the autumn weather, as we near Santiago de Compostela, will be colder and might be f-ing cold in the mountains. The new shoes need to be warm too.

Just say yes...to vending machine coffee

Sahagun/Bercianos del Real Camino/El Burgos Ranero

Sept 24. 17.7 km. 11 miles

It was a sleep in kind of morning. With no pilgrims to awaken us, we snoozed until after 6 AM. After blister patrol and prep, we struck out around 7:45. In a town the size of Sahagun, we certainly anticipated seeing at least one bar open for some coffee. That was not to be. With a lowly coffee vending machine in the foyer of our hostel, being passed by as we left, I realized how my morning mood is improved by coffee. We finally had coffee 10 km later. Lesson learned today...say yes to the vending machine, unless you are damned sure there is coffee available within a few km. 

When we stopped for coffee and empanadas in Bercianos del Real Camino, our 10 km walk was rewarded with wonderful food and great people. We shared a table with Willy Nagelmeier, from Germany. Well into his 60s, he is riding his bike from home in Germany, to Santiago. This is not a bike with umpteen gears. His has two and he is carrying some 50 kg of gear with him. He told me his home, in broken English, and of his family members who immigrated to the US in 1823 and that their name is now Nogelmeier. And one is a professor at university of Hawaii. 

I promised Willy that I would try to find his distant cousin via email at UH and send him the picture. Help me find professor Nogelmeier, all my UH friends.

Our path today was easy walking, on a mostly gravel, flat surface, which is good for John.  His blisters are healing slowly, and we see progress each day.  We are trying to increasing our miles daily. We hope to be in Leon on Friday and will spend an extra day there. John now has Compeed on both feet and says he's doing well. Tomorrow will be about 17 km again.

My prayers todaybwerevfor James. Twenty five years ago I was in last trimester with James and he came to mind.  He such a kind and giving heart but also has a monkey, that I pray is under control.  I pray that he is happy in life. 

We were passed by many people today, who had only their light daypacks. I chatted with some and discovered that they are a part of a tour group. They started in St Jean Pied du Port, like us, but have their rooms booked for them and their bags shipped each day. Some expressed interest in how we have done our walk, carrying our belongings,and finding a place daily. I must say, I've gotten passed feeling like these people are 'cheating' on the Camino. They just do it differently than we do. My ability to judge others is not an asset at all, and I pray that God will help me with that. Perhaps His help is becoming evident here.

There are also the racers, who walk very fast, sometimes with their backs, sometimes not. They seem to have something they must prove. I feel a bit sorry for them, as they must be missing the beauty. I wonder if they are pilgrims, or just out for an adventure.

Our albergue in El Burgos Ranaro for the evening is La Laguna and has a beautiful courtyard, highly amped up host, and isn't full. Perhaps this is what happens when the weather changes - fewer pilgrims. I suspect though that we have just taken a bit shorter walk and the bulk of people are staying a few km beyond us. Tonight we shared a meal with 3 Germans, 1 Cuban and 2 Belgians. One of the Germans and one of the Belgians have made it their mission to cook every night they are in a place with a cocina. Last night marked 152 people they have cooked for on their Camino. It is a treat to sit with others and have a real chance to visit. We gave them money for the food and John did the dishes (just like at home).

One of the young chefs finishes his camino in Leon, but the other man said he would carry on, as long as he could.  Thanks for the great food and evening, Tomas and Ward ( seated at the ends of the table). 

At nearly 2 AM, it is 51 degrees F outside. The forecast is for 44 by morning. We are geared up for dressing warmly as we head out tomorrow. I'm really glad I got that extra fleece in Sahagun. It appears that it will be well used.

My location is as close as it can get. The Autoservice is also where the local tienda is, only a block from our albergue. 

Hobbit Homes in Spain

 Terradillos de Los Templarios/San Nicholas/San Nicolas del Real Camino/Sahagun

Sept 23. 14 km. Meesta Bleesta walks on.

It occurs to me that a map might be in order. We are near Leon, where the blue dot is (as of 9-22-14)

Where we started and where we intend to end, are marked.

At dinner last night we sat with Jano, from San Paulo. This is his third time on the Camino. It has surprised both of us how many people have done this multiple times. Jano said the first time he raced through and realized when he went through his notes that he missed much of the Way. The second time, he was much more observant and took his time. He said he doesn't really know why he is doing it again this year. Next year the Pope will be somewhere on the Camino,so there will be even more crowds. This year is the 800th anniversary of San Francisco making the pilgrimage from Italy, so there are more Italians than usual. Jano said there are so many Germans this year because they are giving thanks to St James for the victory in the World Cup! All in all, a delightful conversation at dinner time.

Our albergue Los Templarios. 

The morning started with blister treatment, in preparation for our walk. We hit the road around 7 AM and again were blessed by a great sun rise and got to watch some threatening skies in our path.

Fortunately, those dark clouds didn't drop any precipitation on us.

We stopped in a small village for our coffee and tortilla. In the hillside were, what John thought, bodegas, little holes in the hillside where people store their wine. I had to point out that these must be homes...there are chimneys and antenna on top! Hobbit holes in real life.

As we neared San Nicolas del Real Camino, I had to snap this picture. 

 I suppose I shouldn't want someone pooping on my roof either.

The front of the no pooping home, complete with the sunflowers that are past ready for harvest. 

John's blisters are still grieving him. Mine were so close to the surface that they healed more quickly. His are deep, under heavy calluses. But he trucks on. My prayers for are for John to recognize if he gets to the point of needing a day off...instead of 'manning-up'.

During our walk today, my thoughts turned to my Mainland family, Rick and MaryAnn and Uncle Buddy. While I'm not good on keeping in touch with them, I think of them often and pray for their health and well being.

Tonight we are in a hostel in Sahagun. We have a private room with queen sized bed, private bath and a window with flowers. The municipal albergue is on the other side of the road from us. On top of the albergue is a gigantic stork nest. 

We've seen these all over this area of Spain.

After looking at these photos, it seems I'd better clean the camera lense. 

Early to bed, after the blister treatment. Tired, tired, tired. Of four people in our room last night, two snored loudly all night. Short on sleep and I've yet to find the good earplugs. 

Mr Blister, Walks Again

Caldadilla de la Cueza/Ledigos/Terradillos de Los Templarios (about 2 km away)

Sept 22. 13 painful km

From my yoga instructor, friend and beautiful woman...thank you Sandra.

      If we are facing the right direction, all we have to do is keep walking - Buddha -

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I start this entry before we head out, as I need to acknowledge the seven, splendid years I've been married to My John. I dearly love this man. Happy anniversary love...

My sweet man, enjoying garbanzo soup last night. Love this guy. I feel so blessed that we are married. 

John is feeling rather miserable this morning. I've yet to check his blisters, but his back is completely whacked out. We have a group of men cyclists who are being very loud at 6 AM. Usually pilgrims whisper in the morning and move about in silence. These fellows don't have that behavior in their repertoire. The one in the top bunk, over John, has been moving all night long, making the entire bed shift head to foot. Add to that the fact that his bed is worn out, my man just isn't doing well. Once the cyclists leave, I'll give him a bit of a massage. 

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We wandered out of the albergue a little after 8 AM. We had hoped for a leisurely morning, but it was not to be.

Our walk was, again, beside a highway, but there was a greenbelt between us and the lightly traveled highway. After John got moving, we made it to Ledigos for coffee, then another few km to a lovely albergue. When one sees a 'Tripadvisor' approval sticker in the window, one has a feeling of glee. We were able to get a room with 4 bunks and it is shared with a man from Slovenia and a woman from Florida. 

The dry, but chilly wind, makes short work of drying our laundry. 

Albergue Los Templarios is located in an area of Spain that the Knights of the Templar held a stronghold, primarily to protect the pilgrims. There is nothing physical left from them, but it is a magical place. Tonight, we are officially 1/2 way to Santiago. I hope John heals and we can make some good time on our days to Leon. 

Blister Report-on the mend for one foot. The other has another blister that was missed during surgery yesterday, so I did another procedure today. Just like real life, eh? John feels that getting them drained, and the thread that facilitates the drainage is working well. 

Total luxury for tomorrow. I've book a room in a hostel in Sahagun. Just the two of us, and a bathroom. It is about 15 km and should not be too for John. If his blisters and/or Achilles' tendon are not much better tomorrow after we arrive in Sahagun, I'll go in search of a doctor. 

My grumpy attitude from yesterday is completely gone and I'm back into the pilgrim frame of mind. The cyclists couldn't even smash it today. I'm grateful for our time together. When asked why I am doing this pilgrimage, I wasn't quite sure in earlier days. Now, it is becoming obvious that my goal is a closer relationship with God and a better understanding of my faith. That faith grows daily. 

Is 'Grump-ti-tude' a word?

Carrion de Los Condes/Caldadilla de la Cueza

Sept 21. 17 km, with blisters

Rather nothing of a day. Up early, as usual, knowing that we wouldn't get far today. But I remember when the idea of walking nearly 11 miles would make me think I was really doing something. It was a very chilly morning and the sliver of a moon was quite bright as we silently made our way out of Carrion. John walked in pain most of the day. It is a blessing the we didn't have rain, and instead witnessed a nice sunrise with only a few clouds.

We went through the tiny town of Calzada Romana without stopping. I had no coffee today, which may had added to my funky mood. Our room last night was filled with snorers and my legs and feet were bothering me until the wee hours. Little sleep, no coffee and  worrying about John, makes me grumpy. Pain makes John grumpy. We were a lovely pair of pilgrims today.

At least we didn't have to walk along a highway today. My memories of our way this day are merely a blur, with its core being my concern about John. For anyone who knows him, you know he is stubborn. He was not going to stop early today. Minor words get exchanged, due to my worry and him not wanting me on to worry. I walked many steps either ahead of or behind him.

Here, on the first day of autumn, John spotted a lone crocus. Poor little confused thing. We notice the small things of nature and of God's earth, and observe ourselves in part of that world.

We are staying at a private,but crowded,albergue. 

There is a pool and a so-so courtyard and lots of nonstop talking. We had our choice of bunk beds and there were two that were pushed together, so....we grabbed them. Lower bunk beds, together. That's as good as it gets. After showers, laundry and some feet up time for John, I fortified myself with a beer and got ready for blister surgery.

The blisters are deep, under his hobbit feet calluses and the surgery tools are a needle and thread. Carefully, I pushed the sterilized needed into the callus on the right heel, trying to not hit the raw meat under the blister. I pushed the needle through,leaving the thread in, so the blister can continue to drain.  He has an identical twin on his other foot. Tomorrow we will cover them large band aids, socks and sandals. 

For tomorrow, we will walk as far as John's feet allow him. I'd like to make Sahagun, but it is 25 km away, and there is no way we can do that with Mr Blister. There are villages with places to stay every few kilometers, so we walk until John cannot anymore. With about 7 more kilometers, we will be at the half way point to Santiago de Compostello. In just over three weeks, we've gone 1/2 way. As we rid ourselves of blisters, we should be able to make some time in the flat Meseta plains do Spain.

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4:30 am. The morning we decide to lounge around, the snoring bicyclers have me awake. I really must get some better earplugs. There is something tight outside our window that sounds like  a Ping pong ball bounding in the wind. I write this only so I remember. 

Fromista/Villalcazar de Sirga/Carrion de Los Condes

Sept 20. 20.5 km

We headed out of our albergue this morning at 6:30 AM and only two blocks later ran headlong into a cafe that was open and selling cafe con leche and tortilla. Since we really didn't know how long until we were to be in another village, we stopped, ate and got back on the way at 7 AM.

We chose the shorter off our two options today, in difference to John's poor feet. His blisters and Achilles' tendon continue to improve, but it is slow. Our path followed beside a highway for then entire day, making rather tedious walk, with little to divert our attention. At one point, we passed many weeping willows and I remembered my brother Rick. As I recall, the softly flowing branches of the weeping willow that grew in our yard outside of Wichita, were frequently used on 'Ricky's' bottom when he got out of line. Brought a smile to my face, remembering booth of them. There were fields of sunflowers with droopy heads, ready for harvest.

About an hour after we truly commenced our walk, we were forced to don our rain gear. A bit of a driving rain, but we kept walking. Luckily for us, it lasted less than an hour and as the rains was subsiding, we caught a glimpse of a rainbow.

We also found a really funky albergue to dry off and have another cup of coffee. It was like a scene from Pahoa...ducks, chickens and turkeys meandering around, a teepee in the back for the more adventurous pilgrims and plenty of dreadlocks. Just like home. We met up with a number of propel we've met before, dried off and enjoyed visiting for a while.

The remainder of the walk was uneventful, with cars speeding along the highway, only a few meters to our left. Mighty hard place to do one's business when walking along a highway!

Perhaps a space between the sunflowers will,serve,as,the temporary water closet?  

Another Saturday in Spain, and another wedding. We were stuck near the middle trying to find our albergue. Wow-these folks sure dress up and put on a good party. Our stopping place for the night Albergue run by the sisters of st Vincent de Paul with 16 beds per dorm room, but not a bunk among them. When we all returned from mass, there was a single person who didn't  do mass. She had the dorm lights out, we the rest of th 15 just used torches to out ourselves together for the evening. 

Staying in a converted convent, still run by the nuns of st Vincente de Paul, it is pretty much obligatory to attend mass.

We were treated to a classical guitar concert before mass. Mostly Baroque music, which translates to a 19 string guitar beautifully. The acoustic in Iglesia de Santa Maria Del Camino were impressive. The musician was extraordinary.

After the concert we left to get a couple of things done before mass, Min and Haley, our friends from NZ show up. They have been taking it easy.

We are so thrilled to see them. I got Min's email address, so we can be in touch when we all get home. Love those two women.

Clanging bells reminded us that we need to return to church for mass. 

Mass was done in Spanish, no surprises there. There were lots of pilgrims and priest asked the pilgrims to stick around after mass for pilgrims blessing. I thought I was the only mushy person there, with tears rolling out of my eyes, but from many of the other pilgrims had tears also. The nuns read a beautiful story of the Camino and what we, as pilgrims need to do to take Jesus with us on our way, to share his light and to keep our hearts open for Jesus. We are to offer kindness and to accept kindness. Father did a special blessing for each pilgrim, laying on the hands and crossing our foreheads. Most, if not all, of the pilgrims were moved to tears. It was an emotional time, during an emotional, nearly 1/2 way point in our journey.

Tears of Joy

Itero de la Vega/Boadilla del Camino/Fromista

Sept 19. 16 km

Upon waking this morning I did some back strengthen moves that our local Pahoa chiropractor, Roy Lozano, taught me. That got me to wondering about his practice, his wife and the entire business community in Pahoa. The lava prediction for Pahoa has been moved forward to less than a week from now. That pretty much means the highway will be covered by then. There will certainly be a change in the way we live, on the south side of the lava flow. My mind set is already change, based upon my reflection and walking. In the wake of Pele, it will also be a physical change.

We started out in the dark again, but the days are getting shorter and it's still dark at 7:25 AM. We are again blessed by a morning that delivers no rain. John's Achilles' tendon is still inflamed, and his blisters are still sore. He doubled up on his socks this morning and opted for wearing his sandals, instead of his Keens. While I'm a bit sore each day, John is in misery. We started out with a short 8.2 km walk in mind to the next village Boadilla del Camino. After walking two hours, we stopped for breakfast there and John decided he could go another 8 km to Fromista and an albergue for the night.

Immediately outside of Boadilla, I was walking behind John, watching him struggle down the path. He was framed by trees preparing to change into their autumn finery. I was overtaken with an overwhelming feeling of love for this man, to the point of tears. We are passing through beautiful countryside in this area and today were treated to a stroll down the Canal de Castilla. Our way mixed with a nature trail, filled with birds, grasses, cattails and fields of sunflowers.

Evidently, this is a day meant for tears and emotions of joy and awe. Late morning, with the canal to our right and harvested fields to our left, we noticed a flock of sheep. Near them were the dogs, jumping, playing and generally ignoring their charges. As we got closer, we saw that the shepard was stretched out in the field, resting and playing with the dogs. When we passed, I waved hello and he waved back. That little act of friendship made my heart soar with joy, for the second time today. What a daily thing for this shepard to relax in the field, but such a treat for me to witness.

Near the end of the canal, we came to the locks and the tourist information stand (a regular thing in this historic part of the world). We were directed to the albergue we had selected and headed across the locks and into the town of Fromista. We walked past San Martin Iglesia, consecrated 1066 and San Pedro Iglesia, built in the 14th century. As we neared the albergue Estrella de el Camino, a man in a wheelchair wished us, 'buen Camino'. Again, that overwhelming feeling of humanity and universal acceptance and love overtook me. 

We feel fortunate that we have again avoided a major rain/thunder/lightening storm this afternoon. As we snuggled together in the lower bunk, we watched the albergue's owner surveying the ceiling. This, during a driving rain, is less than comforting. But my prayers were with the pilgrims who were still walking. During our late afternoon glass of wine, we watched as dozens of pilgrims were directed to the overflow albergue. They were dripping wet and hopeful. Back into the rain they went, in search of the overflow spaces. We have been so blessed to be in a dry, comfortable albergue during the afternoon storms. We hope our blessings continue.

We do not go on this journey without connections to the world outside of our little dream walk. We are quite aware of the results of the Scotland vote and discuss them with a young woman from England over wine. We listen to our French friends discuss their government's actions against the Islami State (IS). We pray for the heath workers fighting ebola in Sierra Leone. Closer to our island paradise, we watch lava flow toward Pahoa. But we continue to walk. And pray.

Tomorrow we will attempt 21 km. John has found flaws in the Keens that caused the blisters. Too much glue, right where the blisters formed. He has pulled the glue out and hopes he can get things back in order with the dreaded shoes. There is little opportunity to search for different hiking shoes until Leon, nearly 125 km away. Ditto for me who is discovering that autumn in Spain, at about 2000 ft elevation, is very chilly and needs a fleece shirt. Walk on. Walk on. Walk on. (Isn't there a song about that???)

Butterflies and Blisters

Hontanas/Castrojeriz/Itero de la Vega

Sept 18 21 km

Our day started in a beautiful way, walking in the dark with other pilgrims. The rains had stopped and most of The Way was without muddy bogs. All along El Camino were the beginnings of a beautiful sunrise. 

As we moved along, we encountered some amazing mushrooms beside the road, blue butterflies and a developing blister.

We passed the ancient Convento de Santa Clara in San Anton and, as we walked into Castrojeriz for some coffee and breakfast, John told me he had a blister forming. It was on the opposite side from his sore Achilles' tendon, so I suspect he was favoring his good foot. Voila, a blister. Some coffee, tortilla and a Compeed patch on the blister, we moved on. 

A few more kilometers down the road, we had the 1050 meter climb, at a challenging 12% grade, up Alto Mostelares. After pausing to listen to a woman who was playing her guitar and singing by a bridge, we attacked the mountain. Rather I attacked and John struggled. Once at the top, John applied a Compeed patch to a fellow pilgrim who was suffering from a blister. Then there was the walk back down. By the time we were back to flat land, John had a blister on his other foot. He is blaming the inserts and, unfortunately, he left the Keen provided inserts at our last albergue. And we had about 4 more, painful, kilometers to go to Itero de la Vega and our albergue.

Mister Blister, preparing to head back down the the mountain. 

Much of El Camino today was on farm roads, meaning we had to clear the way for the tractors who take up most of the space. I can't imagine what it is like, always seeing pilgrims wandering on their way to Santiago. Is it similar to always seeing the tourists at home? We passed harvested wheat fields, sunflowers and corn, ready for harvest and more root vegetables. Dry dry dry earth and a path that has been tread upon by hundreds of thousands of pilgrims for centuries. We got doused by some irrigation sprinklers outside Itero de la Vega. We were blessed by no sprinkles, or showers, from the sky.

On the back of a traffic sign that we passed was the following message, 'This is not Hollywood. Tourist of The Way movie, go home'. It was signed by someone from Greenland earlier this month.

John is conked out in his bed, I am at a bar eating lovely mixto ensalada and trying to translate the Spanish news on the TV. Later, when I have internet, I need to confirm what I have loosely translated, that Scotland has voted to secede from England. What a great time to be in Europe! And in Spain, the Castillians are preparing for a vote in November to secede from Spain. I am rather enjoying be disconnected from the world while on our walk. Before the afternoon news however, I was treated to music video. Good grief...it's Shania Twain in a bar in Itero de la Vega!

For the only the second time since we have begin our pilgrimage, I've done our laundry. Our albergue today is a major shift from yesterday. Santa Brigida in Hottanas was deluxe. La Mochila (the rucksack) in Itero de la Vega is available. And for only 2 Euro less! But they are the only show in town and own both bars and the only cafe that is open in the afternoon. 

The patio of our albergue has the most amazing mural. I couldn't help but think of Pele, and her path of lava heading across Hwy 130 when I saw this.

Due to the blisters and swelling Achilles' tendon, our walk will,be very short tomorrow. We had hoped to get in close to 30 km, but will probably just go to the next village, 10 km away. Such is life. Such is El Camino.