Thunderstorms in the Mesete plains

Rabe del la Calzados/Hornillos del Camino/Hontanas

Sept 17. About 20 km

The albergue across the street from us in Rabe del la Calzados does not offer breakfast, so a number of our fellow peregrinos were coming into the dining area this morning in wet rain gear. A few minutes later, after our toast, jam and coffee, we put on our shoes and checked outside for precipitation - and there was none. The shower had passed. Making sure our rain pants and jackets were at the top of our packs, we left the village at 7 AM.  After some walking we we treated to a beautiful sunrise and a rainbow. How we have been so blessed to not be caught in much rain is beyond me, but we do realize that it IS a blessing. 

Our  decision to purchase shoes has proven to be a good one. Last night I refitted my sport insoles into the Keens. While they are not as supportive, or thick soled as I'd like, they did me good today. John also. We both have sore feet, but his  Morton's neuroma and Achilles' tendon are better and my bruises are on the mend. All said, my feet hurt the way they did 7 years ago, when they caused me endless pain. I can live with this again as I'm sure the pain will subside. 

The skies over the plains stayed delightfully cloudy, giving us a day of walking in much cooler weather.

We met a couple from Victoria AU at dinner last night and we have passed each other often in the road today. She is quite slow, having had knee surgery and, two years ago being told she wouldn't ever walk more then a few meters at a time. Her dream was to walk to Santiago and she is doing it. She is a miracle. She says the pain isn't bad, as long as she goes slowly. 

And then there are a few people we meet who we wish we hadn't. Last night our 7 bed room was shared with a delightful young French woman who left her home in Northern France in late June and is walking her way to Santiago. She was great. The two French couples who were also in the room were obnoxious.   Loud and inconsiderate of anyone but themselves. As pilgrims, we all try to keep the path in the dorm rooms clear and to respect others needs for rest and fresh air. This group spread everywhere, spoke with their outdoor voices while the other three of us were trying to rest and refused to keep a window open during the night. I know I've ranted about some of the ME ME ME attitudes, but I just had to do it again. My opinion isn't universal for the French folks. I'm blessed to have many friends from France...this group was just not a good example of pilgrims. 

Around 11:30 we came into Hontanas, our resting place for today. We made much better time than we thought we would and will increase our distance tomorrow. 

Outside of the village, whose population is 70, is a tiny shrine for Saint Bridget of Sweden. Born in 1303, she had visions at a very young age and eventually founded the Bridgettines nuns and monks after the death of her husband. She is one of six patron saints of Europe. We considered this a good thing, as we had reservations for an albergue called Santa Brigeda. 

A welcoming sign for a beautiful albergue. 

After a beer at the local bar, where we also ate our bocadillo, we checked into the most beautifully restored albergues we've yet to encounter. A beautiful pilgrim kitchen and dining area, a bar and cafe and upstairs, wonderfully comfortable bunk beds. The greatest surprise was that our host showed us into a private room. We have the only one here and haven't a clue why we get it. John says it's because of his reputation for snoring!   

 Our bunks are made of pine and the steps to the top bunk are wide and comfy on my feet. 

We have a very dark afternoon, as the thunder and rain have been ruling the afternoon. It is a cool 15 degrees C, and the thunder has been rolling for a couple of hours. My prayers are for the pilgrims who are out walking in this storm. I hope they stay safe and get to their albergues soon. Yes, even the obnoxious French folks are included in this prayer. No one should have to be out in this weather. 

I am glad that John and I are not in the crowd of people who are racing the way to Santiago. We have the time to stop and enjoy the scenery while we share an apple, or visit on the road with other pilgrims who are taking a more leisurely pace. It also gives me plenty of time for reflection and prayer. 

Only ten lucky guests here in Santa Brigida got to share a Peregrino meal. We shared a table,with a German man who walked from his home, three French folks who also have walked from their homes, a woman from Victoria BC, the AU couple I mentioned earlier and a gent from Nashville. 

Dinner was a wonderful mixed salad and then a huge pan of paella. The 10 so us made short order of the salad, paella and the wine. What a treat. 

From dinner to am early bed, in preparation for a walking journey on Thursday that has some rather steep trails. 

Hope you are enjoying reading my notes about our journey. Hugs to all, especially our family and friends in Puna.