The Way Of The Pilgrim

I believe that the true pilgrim experience is beginning. I was humbled by Alto del Perdon outside of Cizur Menor yesterday and turned back to rest. We were denied sleep, due to partying, on the street below our room in Pamplona until 4 AM on Thursday night. We have crossed the Pyrenees and tortured our way down from them. We now share a room with 24 other pilgrims in Obanos. 

The signs we see are in two languages, Spanish and Basque. There are Basque graffiti symbols over official Spain signs. We have felt no animosity, yet it is still very obvious that the Basque feel their home land has been invaded. 

After a day of rest, we made it to the top of Alto del Perdon. The Mountain of Forgiveness. The top of the mountain has iron cut outs, commemorating pilgrims of the past. 

My John does our laundry every afternoon, affording me a time to write and reflect. I'm blessed by a guardian angel that put us together. And to have a man in my life who feels it's important that HE does the wash. The laundry is slow to dry, since the courtyard at this albergue has little sun. Tomorrow we will walk with clothes pinned to our packs so they will be dry by our next stop.

The people we took up with in the beginning have left us in the dust. Others needed to take a break and we've left them. All in all, we are at a different pace everyday and the pilgrims we dine with tonight may be far ahead of us by tomorrow...or far behind us.

Tomorrow we plan to get to Villatuerta Puerta tomorrow. We have begun calling ahead to get a bed reserved at the destination village, because there continues to be many pilgrims. Not however, like the first few days. 

Mass at 7 PM on this Saturday, Sept 6. After that, the pilgrims dinner at the local bar. Then pack for tomorrow and go to bed. Tomorrow, we start it again. On the Camino by 6:30 to beat the heat, at our albergue by 2:30. 

57 miles this far. Our pace will quicken how that we are nearing the end of the Pyrenees foothills. 

 Our way is slowed by the ancient, very rough, Roman roads. They worked for chariots and armies, but the pilgrims ankles, toes and legs suffer. This is why we make it only 10 miles, or less, per day. 

We get to see plenty of vineyards in this famous Navarra wine area. And every pilgrims dinner is complemented with plenty of wine. It helps to relax into sleep.